Uniquity of Fashion
Though the exact date of when clothing was created remains a mystery, its history is enriched with facts that tell us how humans in the past have used it in their daily lives. According to the Oxford English Dictionary, fashion is the mode of dress, etiquette, furniture, style of speech, etc., adopted in society for the time being. Notice that this definition explicitly ends with, “for the time being.” Fashion is not static, rather its dynamic nature is evident in peoples varying tastes. Being worth over $2.4 trillion dollars, the fashion industry continues to be a powerful empire that dominates our daily lives and influences our choices in how we present ourselves as individual members of society (Amed, Berg, Brentberg 1).
Rihanna Fenty x Puma Fashion Week Show Fall 2016, Image Source: Getty / TIMOTHY A. CLARY
The fashion industry truly is a powerful empire. It’s ability to capture the eyes of millions of “fashion-buffs” and conjure a mass following speaks of its influential character. It is noted by Mary Bellis of Thought Co. that clothing first began as “…animal skin and furs, grasses and leaves, and bones and shells. Clothing was often draped or tied” (Bellis 1). Then, overtime fashion became more sophisticated with the advancement of technology that allowed for people to create interesting and iconic pieces that play a role in not only individual fashion statements, but also a role in popular culture. One example would be fashion’s influence in the popular film franchise The Hunger Games. Throughout the film are elements of fashion that make the films setting unique. These elements of fashion are found throughout the citizens of Panem and the aesthetic found in the set pieces. After learning even more about the importance of fashion within the Inca Empire, the films obsession with fashion communicates the idea that what citizens wore, displayed their nobility and elitism.
"I think there is beauty in everything. What 'normal' people perceive as ugly, I can usually see something of beauty in it."
—Alexander McQueen
For the past two weeks, humanities has delved into the complex and beautiful empire of the Incas. Professor Rachel O’ Toole, a historian and archivist, has presented numerous theses that speak of the nobility of the Incan people. Part of her claims that I have always had an interest in were the relevance of their clothing, for each article of clothing communicated various meanings’. First, let’s look at the Andean uncu.
Man's Tunic (Uncu) with Tocapu and Stylized Jaguar Pelt Design, (double-sided), Bolivia, Lake Titicaca, mid- to late 16th century; tapestry weave; cotton warp; camelid, silk, and metallic weft; 38 x 30 in. (97.8 x 78.1 cm); American Museum of Natural History, Division of Anthropology, New York, B/1500. Photo © American Museum of Natural History Library, New York (B/1500).
The uncu is a tunic, mainly worn by men, that is made of “…interlocked tapestry with cotton and the wool-like yarn derived from camelids” and cumbi (cloth) made by specialists (LACMA). Often times, these types of garments were reserved for the Andean elite, often times rulers. From the photo above, you can see the amount of detail that goes into producing these uncus. The intricacy is impeccable in the designs of these uncus! Now, Professor O’ Toole mentioned on her lecture of January 9th, 2018, that the patterns you find on these uncu’s communicate messages of their nobility and their well-being within the Andean society. In short, O’Toole says that uncus ultimately communicate the message of “elitism above all Andeans” (O’ Toole).
Portrait of a kuraka wearing a mascapycha, Einar Jimenez
In addition to the intricate Andean uncu, it is noted that included with the wearing of the uncu are tassels or fringe, known as mascapaicha. The patriarchal society of the Inca is most evident through the sexist taboo that surrounded this article of clothing. Professor O’ Toole mentions that because of the patriarchal Incan empire, women were not allowed to wear this crown. Rather the elite men and rulers of the Inca empire were the rightful bearers of the tassel. Putting these pieces together, one may find that fashion seems to play a major role in the Andean empire. For these articles of clothing communicate various messages; the messages of elitism, high power and rank within society. I noticed a connection between the Incan empire and today’s society: clothing speaks for our individuality and is an influence in our everyday decisions. I say this because as it was mentioned, these articles of clothing communicated the power that these men held in controlling their empire.
Gallery View, Clothes/Not Clothes: War/Peace
Photo: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
I find that fashion speaks many narratives. Simply looking at the articles of clothing dating back to the 16th century speaks of the struggles between the conflicts of power. For Andean men and women struggled to hold power, to main power in its rightful place. Yet it spoke of the individuality and uniqueness of the Andean empire.
Works Cited
Amed, Imran, et al. “The State of Fashion.” Mckinsey&Company, Dec. 2016, www.mckinsey.com/industries/retail/our-insights/the-state-of-fashion.
“The Andean Uncu.” The Andean Uncu | LACMA, www.lacma.org/andean-uncu.
Bellis, Mary. “Bras to Blue Jeans: Learn How Your Favorite Clothing Came to Be.” ThoughtCo, 17 Mar. 2017, www.thoughtco.com/history-of-clothing-1991476.